We're gonna need a bigger bug spray

Yes, it's been 18 months. What of it?

Full disclosure: I have no great and abiding love for Tyranids. Sure, I once fielded a Tyranid army - 30 years ago under the 2nd Edition Codex, back in the days of bright primary colours and turkey-warriors. Today they feel like a generic "big bad", a useful foil to the heroic Astartes*. No, I needed something to practice painting on after an extended hobby hiatus, and the 40k starter set was a cost-effective way of doing it. 38 miniatures, plus rules and dice, for £65? Don't mind if I do.

As the point of the exercise was to practice my painting, I went through a number of approaches - particularly with the Termagants and Von Ryan's Leapers. I tried the "standard" approach (base/shade/block/highlight), the "quick/modern" approach (base, contrast, highlight) and the "noob" approach (base, shade, drybrush).

It turns out, for me, painting Tyranids, the "noob" approach worked best (and quickest) - with an extra step for details, textures and top highlights. Overall I'm pretty happy with the result:

Most of my paints are from the Duncan Rhodes/Transatlantic Games Two Thin Coats range. My final recipe was:

• Primer: Vallejo Surface Primer - German Panzer Grey
• Body:
  • Base layer: Two Thin Coats (TTC) Ivory Tusk
  • Shade: 33% TTC Helion Red Wash + 30% TTC Magi Purple Wash + 30% water
  • Drybrush: TTC Griffon Claw, TTC Ivory Tusk, TTC Trooper White
• Chitinous Armour:
  • Base layer: Two Thin Coats (TTC) Ivory Tusk
  • Main colour: 3 layers of 50% Citadel Shyish Purple Contrast + 50% TTC Magi Purple Wash (building up a gradient)
  • Drybrush: TTC Amethyst Rain, TTC Sorceror's Cloak, TTC Runic Purple
  • Highlight/detail: 50% TTC Runic Purple + 50% TTC Trooper White
• Weapon/claws/hooves:
  • Base layer: TTC Sanguine Scarlet
  • Shade: 50% TTC Helion Red Wash + 50% TTC Magi Purple Wash
  • Drybrush: TTC Sanguine Scarlet, TTC Demon Red, TTC Orange Flame

The other new technique I tried with these models was a "cracked base" effect. Rather than shell out for technical paints, or crackle medium, I followed a tutorial that creates an excellent effect with PVA glue and an airbrush (not PVA glue in an airbrush, mind):

How to Paint a Cracked Base in 5 Minutes (Tutorial) - Tangible Day

The cracked earth effect is a great way to add some depth to your miniatures. It can be used for all sorts of ideas, from lava effects, ice and dried desert scenes. The base of a model adds key scenery and context for your painted models, which completes the overall look of a great paint […]

Tangible DayAndrew Tan

I learnt a lot trying this out, and I will definitely use the technique again. The basic steps were:

1. Paint the bases in a fairly random pattern - a single colour, but ranging in brightness from mid-tone to very bright highlight (I did this with an airbrush).
2. Paint the bases to a thickness of about 3mm with PVA glue
3. Immediately spray over the bases with your darker base colour
4. Leave for about 12 hours until the PVA is completely dry. The idea is that the paint dries almost immediately, but the PVA dries slowly - and expands slightly as it dries. That's what causes the cracks, and a thicker layer of PVA = more growth = bigger cracks. Once the PVA is dry it's clear, so you can see the colours showing from underneath.

So my final results are...

The Von Ryan's Leapers:

The Ripper Swarms:

The Winged Tyrant:

The Pyschophage:

And finally the whole horde:

Well, that's it for the Tyranids. You may see them on eBay at some point, recouping some hobby funds. Next it's on to the Space Marines. There will be no blue-and-white in sight 😉.

* Yes, I know the Imperium are not supposed to be the "good guys", and Space Marines are genetically engineered murder drones, but Games Workshop haven't exactly played up the genocidal military-theocracy theme in recent years. Bad for sales, I guess.